Format:
1 online resource (531 pages)
Edition:
1st ed.
ISBN:
9781118768600
Series Statement:
Blackwell Companions to Art History Series
Note:
Cover -- Title Page -- Copyright Page -- Contents -- Acknowledgments -- List of Figures -- Series Editor's Preface -- Notes on Contributors -- General Introduction -- Textile Culture -- The Content of the Volume: Selecting Themes -- Textiles as "Other": A Politics of Cloth -- Geography Is History -- Textiles and Materials Innovation -- References -- Part I Histories and Frameworks -- Chapter 1 Unraveling the Fabric of the Past: Interdisciplinary Approaches to Archaeological Textiles -- Introduction -- Structural and Material Analysis: Textile Cultures and Identity -- Structural Analysis: Technological Choices and Innovations -- Characterization and Provenance Studies: Trade and Exchange -- Textile Implements: Textile Production, Gender, and Mobility -- Paleoenvironmental Data: Textile Resources -- Alternative Sources: Written Evidence and Textile Economies -- Alternative Sources: Iconography and Textile Use -- Conclusion -- Notes -- References -- Chapter 2 Textile Cultures in the Early Modern World -- Pioneering Scholarship, Problematic Sources -- Cloth and Clothing in Collective Works -- Broader Interests, Narrower Focus -- New Peoples, New Places -- Conclusion: Globalizing But Not Yet Global -- Notes -- References -- Chapter 3 Rewriting Textile Culture with Woven Words: "Oro es tu hilar" by Chilean Poet Cecilia Vicuña -- Notes -- References -- Chapter 4 Branding Tradition: The Commercialization of Hand Embroidery in Gujarat -- Introduction -- How the Research Was Done -- Commercial Embroidery: Historical Precedent -- Labor of Love: Dowry Embroidery -- Austerity Measures: Rabari Embroidery Ban -- Emergent Business: Selling Heirlooms -- "Craft Nation"21: Handicrafts and National Identity -- Interventions by State Agencies: GSHHDC -- NGOs in the Embroidery Sector -- Conclusion: Branding Tradition -- Notes -- References -- Websites
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Chapter 11 Stitching (in) Trauma: Constructing Identity in Thread Behind Prison Bars -- Stitching Identity -- Stitching (in) Trauma -- Stitching Imagetextile -- Fabricating Identity and Stitching (in) Trauma: Janie Terrero -- Fabricating Identity and Stitching (in) Trauma: Františka Albrechtová -- Conclusion -- Notes -- References -- Chapter 12 Creative Tensions: Making (It), Unmaking, and Making Do in Textiles Informed by Feminism -- Looking Back or Backtracking? Thinking Through Textiles and Feminism in 2017 -- "The Tangle in My Head"3: Textiles and the Fissured Foundations of Feminist Art History -- Postscript: Skirting5 the Studio -- Notes -- References -- Chapter 13 Spinning a Yarn of One's Own -- Carnivalising Theory, Creolizing Text -- Three Artists, Three Objects, Three Historical Moments -- Conclusion -- Acknowledgments -- Notes -- References -- Chapter 14 Pictures and Polemics: Muslim Veiling Practices in Contemporary Art -- Introduction -- The Veil in Context -- Postcolonial Veils: Speaking Back -- Postcolonial Veils: Mimicry and Double Critique -- Conclusion -- References -- Chapter 15 The Subversive Stitch Revisited -- Unraveling the Subversive Stitch -- Valuing Immigrant Labor and Lives: Aram Han Sifuentes -- Immigrant Workers in the Garment Industry -- Garment Work, Materialized -- Stitching a Citizen: The US Citizenship Test Samplers -- Carole Frances Lung's Subversive Stitches Across Time -- Collaborative Sewing, Collective Organizing -- Conclusion: Subversive Sewing Today -- Notes -- References -- Part IV Conceptual Boundaries -- Chapter 16 Modernism's Roots in the Domestic, Decorative, and Vernacular Through Textiles -- Cultural Theory -- Entrepreneurial Projects -- Weaving and Tapestry -- Textile Industry and Design in America at Midcentury -- Midcentury Textiles and Consumer Culture -- Cross-Cultural Connections -- Conclusion
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Chapter 21 Around the World in 80 Biennials: Curating Lausanne, Hangzhou, Kaunas -- Introduction -- Biennials, Triennials, and Periodical Exhibitions in the Context of Fine Art -- The Biennial Fever -- The Biennial as a Curatorial Problem -- Commissions, Participation, Site Specificity, Localities, and the New Cultural Premise of the Biennial -- What's Between Textile and Contemporary Visual Cultures? -- Textile and the Voice of the "Other" -- The Case of Documenta -- The Case of Lausanne -- Defining Textile, Defining Art -- The Case of Kaunas -- Biennials Between East and West -- The Case of Hangzhou -- Notes -- References -- Chapter 22 Indigenous Textiles of North America: A Century of Exhibitions -- Introduction -- Aestheticizing Indigenous Textiles in Early Twentieth‐Century Displays -- Exhibitions 1970-2000: Indigenous Textiles Come into Their Own -- Conclusion: New Directions for Exhibitions and Artists in the Contemporary Era -- References -- Chapter 23 Valorizing Gee's Bend Quilts: Affinity, Adjacency, and the Modern Eye -- Introduction -- Modernist Antecedents -- The Quilts of Gee's Bend -- Gee's Bend: The Architecture of the Quilt -- New Generation -- Implications -- Notes -- References -- Chapter 24 Performing the Political in Oceanian Textile Cultures: Collectivity, Syncretism, and Globalization -- Collectivity, Syncretism, and Authorship in Indonesia: Heri Dono -- Aboriginal Australian Batik: Emily Kngwarreye -- Indigenous Activist Weaving and Cloak Making in New Zealand and Australia: Keren Ruki and Cook's New Clothes -- Conceptual Textile Practices and Fabric Paintings: Ruby Hoette and Elizabeth Newman -- Conclusion -- References -- Index -- EULA
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Chapter 5 "The Real Thing": How Object Analysis Unlocks Meaning and Enriches Documentary Evidence -- A "LOG CABIN" Quilt -- Museological Context -- Cultural Comparisons -- Deep Description7 -- Life History and Memory -- Textile History -- Conclusion -- Acknowledgments -- Notes -- References -- Part II Textiles, Trade, and Global Culture -- Chapter 6 Reading Textiles: Transmission and Technology of Silk Road Textiles in the First Millennium -- Textiles and Silk Road Studies -- Silk Road Textiles in Museum Exhibits -- Early Chinese Silks and Questions about Complex Looms -- The Zandaniji Controversy -- Finds of Fifth-Century Complex Silks at Munchaktepe, Uzbekistan -- Finds of the Roman Wool Taqueté -- Wool Finds Around the Taklamakan Desert -- Fiber Technologies and Implications -- Acknowledgment -- Note -- References -- Chapter 7 West Africa: Technology, Tradition, and Lurex Revisited -- Technology, Tradition, and Lurex -- The Technologies of Weaving -- Imported Materials -- Indigo and Other Dyes, Resist-Dyeing -- Other Textile Techniques -- African-Print Cloth -- Conclusion -- Further Reading -- References -- Chapter 8 Textiles of Eastern and Southern Africa -- Introduction -- Sudan -- Ethiopia and Somalia -- Madagascar -- Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda -- Mozambique -- Southern Africa -- References -- Chapter 9 Remaking Tradition in Art and Design in Pakistan -- The Trade Significance of Indian Textiles -- Circulating Tradition -- Salvaging Tradition -- The Crafting of Contemporary Art in Pakistan -- Contemporary Contexts for Remaking the Traditional: Pedagogy and Design -- Design Entrepreneurs -- Notes -- References -- Part III The Social Fabric: The Politics and Poetics of Cloth -- Chapter 10 Fabricating Identity: Textiles in the Pacific -- Region/Nation/Tribe -- Social Status -- Gender -- Religion -- Modernity -- References
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Further Reading -- References -- Chapter 17 Material Strategies: Cloth and Textile Metaphors in Modern and Contemporary Art -- Why Is This Happening Now? -- Challenging Hierarchies of Medium -- Cloth and the Feminist Art Project -- The Politics and Poetics of Cloth in Contemporary Art: A Strategy for Articulating Issues Around the Social and Political -- Conclusion -- References -- Chapter 18 Pragmatics of Attachment and Detachment: A Constellatory Reinscription of Textile -- Introduction -- A Point of Departure: From the Strategic Negotiation of Medium Specific Conventions to Constellatory Complexity -- From Negative Contingency to Affirmative Complicity -- Embracing Constellatory Complexity -- From Strategies of Representation to the Affective Indeterminacy of the Aesthetic Encounter -- An Active Opening up to Alterity: Theodor Adorno's Mimetic Comportment -- Practice Strategies: Mobilizing Subjective Attachment and Detachment -- The Fraying of Boundaries -- the Agential Capacity of Textile as a Medium of Convergence and Divergence -- Notes -- References -- Chapter 19 Japanese Textile Culture: The Example of Junichi Arai and Five Other Creators -- Introduction -- Tradition and Industry -- Junichi Arai: Achievements and Challenges -- Five Creators: Contemporary Textile Culture -- Conclusion: Looking Forward -- References -- Chapter 20 Stories of Innovation: Fabrication in Africa and Beyond -- Introduction -- El Anatsui -- Abdoulaye Konaté -- Kwesi Owusu-Ankomah -- Papa Essel -- Dorothy Akpene Amenuke -- Patrick Tagoe-Turkson -- Ibrahim Mahama: Humanity, Labor, and Capital -- Elegies from the East Coast -- Northern Blues: Rachid Koraïchi, Lalla Essaydi, and Ghada Amer -- Conclusions -- Domestic Trade in kente and Migrating Images -- Further Reading -- References -- Part V Reception and Representation
Additional Edition:
Print version Harris, Jennifer A Companion to Textile Culture Newark : John Wiley & Sons, Incorporated,c2020 ISBN 9781118768907
Language:
English
Keywords:
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